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Building A Plant Stand

Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 · Leave a Comment

Before we launch into this week’s article…

Gardening Classes with Henry

Lebanon College: Gardening: A Practical Workshop. Garden writer Henry Homeyer will teach you the basics of organic vegetable and flower gardening. From garden design to seed-starting , planting, watering, weeding, mulching, and harvesting, this course will give each student practical knowledge of gardening. Tuesday nights from 6:30-8:30 for 5 weeks, April 3-May 2.Contact Lebanon College to reserve a spot for this5-part workshop www.lebanoncollege.edu or call 603-448-2445.

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

For more information go to www.avagallery.org or call 603-448-3117.

    Building a Plant Stand

          It’s time to start planting seeds indoors for late spring planting. Depending where you are (and what this crazy weather does), late May or early June should be frost free, so we have about 8 weeks till planting things like tomatoes.

          This year I replaced all my fluorescent lights and decided to move plants upstairs to the laundry room. My clunky old metal plant stand would be nearly impossible to get up our spiral staircase, so I built a folding wooden one – and you can, too. It took me an hour to build and cost a lot less than buying one.

Plant Stand

First, you need to decide if a plant stand is right for you. Mine is a tall narrow triangle in cross section, with 2 shelves. It is 6 feet tall, 5 feet wide and 2 feet from front to back at the base. It has space for 6 flats or trays, each of which will hold at least 32 plants – more if you buy the smaller six-packs that I avoid (some flats can hold 48-72 plants).

The lumber for this cost me just under $50 and the light fixtures – 4-foot shop lights – cost me $14 each plus $8 for the fluorescent tubes. The stand uses 3 fixtures, so the lights cost about $65, for a grand total of about $115. Looking at catalogs, I see that one can easily spend $500 or more for an equivalent. One could use the same design to make a similar model that would just have one shelf and use one fixture and cost about $75. Then, if you decide you like starting plants in the house, you could add a second shelf and buy the extra lights and shelf next year.

Here is what you need to buy for the model I built:

(10) pieces of 1”x2” pine, 6 ft long

(2) pieces ¼” plywood, 2’x4’

(1) pair 3” strap hinges

(3) 4′ shop lights with fluorescent bulbs

(50) sheet rock screws (1.25” long)

Tools: portable drill with magnetic bit to fit the screws and a measuring tape

Lumber yards will cut all your materials to size for you. Some sell plywood in 2ft by 4 ft sheets. If not, you will have to buy a full sized sheet (4×8-ft) which will cost a little more. In any case, your top shelf is 16 inches wide by 4 feet long, the second shelf is 24 inches by 4 feet, so you will need to ask someone to cut the 16 inch piece to size. You will need to ask them to cut the 1×2 pine boards as follows: six 60-inch pieces, four 72-inch pieces, six 12-inch pieces. So if the store does not have 6-ft lengths, get 12-ft lengths and have them cut to length.

Legs of Plant Stand

Start by making 2 legs for your plant stand. Lay the 6-ft pieces end-to-end on the floor. Do it on your deck if possible, or next to a wall so that you can get them in a straight line by lining them up with something that is straight. Lay the hinges in place so that you will be able to fold them closed (most hinges only close one way).

Next close up the hinged legs and place them 5-ft apart on the floor. Place 3 of the 5-ft pieces on top of the first side. One should be screwed right at the top, one 24 inches from that, and the last 24 inches below that. Flip over the stand, and do the same on that side. Stand it up, and spread the legs 2 feet apart at the bottom. At this point, your tripod will be wobbly. Let’s fix that.

You have 6 pieces of scrap wood, a foot long, left over from making the 5-ft lengths. You need to attach 2 of these to the inside of the bottom cross pieces, one on the front right, one on the back left. Then place your 24-inch shelf on top of the bottom supports and center it. There is 6 inches or so of space on either end of your shelf.

You will now attach a cross brace at a 45 degree angle between the short piece you just installed and a leg. This will keep the plant stand from swaying. Then take another 12-inch piece and attach it across the legs (front to back) 30 inches from the top. That will make prevent the legs from splaying – and make it as sturdy as the Rock of Gibraltar.

Cross bracing

Lastly you need to hang the lights. Mine came with S-hooks and chain, which made hanging the lights easy. If yours do not, you will have to buy them. Most shop lights have a slots and holes on the back side so that you can slip in S-hooks easily to hang it. You can also open a link of your chain and fit it in without an S-hook, just use 2 pairs of pliers to bend a link open.

Plant Stand

Starting seedlings indoors is miraculous for me – even after doing it for decades. I hold my breath waiting for germination, and fuss over the seedlings like a mother hen. And when I bite into my first tomato in August, I have the added satisfaction in knowing I brought that tomato into my world – with a little help from Mother Nature.

Henry Homeyer is a gardening consultant, teacher and book author. His e-mail address is henry.homeyer@comcast.net. You may write him at P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746.

Web Extra: When to Start Seedlings Indoors

I start 200-300 plants indoors each year. When should one start them? It depends where you live and on the type of plant. Let’s start with when. The key factor is when Mother Nature delivers the last of the cold weather to your garden. In my Zone 4 part of the world, conventional wisdom is that it is all right to plant frost-sensitive plants like tomatoes on Memorial Day weekend. I usually put mine out a week after that, to allow the ground to warm up – and taking no chances that a late season frost will kill my tender plants.

As I explain in my books, The Vermont Gardeners Companion and The New Hampshire Gardeners Companion, the phase of the moon does not affect the date of the last spring frost. Those books also list what plants are frost sensitive and which are not.

Here it is, March 27 as I write this, and I have already started onions, leeks, peppers and a few leafy greens indoors. The peppers won’t go outdoors until June, 12 weeks after starting indoors, but the onions (and leeks) will go out in May as they can take some frost. The greens, likewise will go out in mid-May. Most greens I will plant by seed outdoors.

Eight weeks before outdoor planting I will start indoors my tomatoes, broccoli, and kale. My squash plants I start 4-5 weeks before they go out in June. I don’t want them too big, and they grow fast. I start squashes and cukes in 3-inch pots instead of little six-packs.

Filed under Article · Tagged with lights for plant, plant stand, starting seedlings

Outdoor Work in Early Spring

Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2012 · Leave a Comment

Before we launch into this week’s article…

Gardening Classes with Henry

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

For more information go to www.avagallery.org or call 603-448-3117.

Outdoor Work in Early Spring

Despite a spate of warm weather, it’s still early spring. In my world maple sap is running, a little snow is still in the woods and foolish (early bird) robins are losing weight while waiting for the earthworms to surface. It’s still too early to rake my lawn as it’s pretty soggy. My flower beds would suffer from soil compaction if I were to step inside to clean them up. So what can a gardener do?

Sapling growing near mature pine

This is a great time to clean up scrub brush and small trees along stone walls, close to the house and around stately old trees. If you take a look around your property, you will probably see many “volunteer” trees that are growing where they shouldn’t. Now is a good time to snip them back or pull them out before they get large.

Seeds are amazing. Each has the genetic material to create a new plant. They can stay dormant for years, just waiting for the right growing conditions. But they have flaws: they have no eyes – and little common sense. That’s right. A seed will grow wherever ends up, even if it has no chance to reach maturity at its location. So a maple seed may germinate an inch from a mature pine tree, for example. It has no good future there, but it will try anyway. Volunteer trees and shrubs are easy to remove when young. Ideally, you can pull them and they will never come back to bother you again.

     There is a tool that can help you do so: the Weed Wrench (www.weedwrench.com). They come in 4 sizes, from mini to large depending on the size trees you need to remove – and your budget. A Weed Wrench has a mouthpiece that bites down on a trunk, and a steel lever to pull out the culprit using the mechanical advantage of its long arm. They weigh from 5 lbs to 24 pounds and cost between $82 and $189. One might be good investment for your garden club or Scout troop – many people could share it.

     But even small trees may have extensive root systems, so if you wish to do a quick-n-easy clean up, go outside with your loppers and get to work. Cut off stems as close to the ground as you can. But be forewarned: many trees will coppice, or send up several new shoots around the stump.

     One of the most common invasive shrubs in my neighborhood is the Japanese honeysuckle. It is common along the edges of fields, stonewalls and driveways. A single bush can get to be 10 feet tall and wide. They produce pleasant cream-colored flowers in early summer, and birds like the seeds – which they distribute widely. I cut several big honeysuckles on my property last fall, and just cut off a few more recently. I know they may come back from the roots, but they won’t bloom and produce seeds in their first year, so I am reducing seed production. And if I can remember to cut them back every year or two, I will slow their spread.

Loppers used for brush clean-up

     Trees compete for nutrients, water and sunlight. If you have an aging maple or other tree that is not in perfect health, cleaning up the scrub around it seems like a logical way to help. Sugar maples, in general, are suffering due to the acid rain that falls here in New England (due to pollutants in the air from coal-burning power plants). Acid rain dissolves calcium in the soil, and allows it to wash away or leach deeper into the soil. Maples in particular suffer when growing in low calcium conditions. So removing vigorous young trees and shrubs from around the maples – their competition – should help.

     You can also help your old maples by spreading some limestone around the trees at this time of year. I distribute limestone in a circle about 100 feet in diameter around an aging maple each fall or spring. I don’t do it scientifically, so many pounds per hundred square feet. I just give a light top dressing each year, and know that it helps.

     Another reason I get rid of scrub brush is pure aesthetics. Small trees and shrubs distract the eye from the beauty of a stone outcropping or wall. I like simplicity and neatness in my landscape. Scruffy stuff is akin to an unmade bed. Clean it up, and it’s easier to notice the texture of the bark of a mature maple or beech.

Saw used for small trees

Another chore that can be done now is to remove some lower branches of trees alongside your stone wall. In keeping with my desire to simplify the landscape and expose ledge or stonework, I like to cut off branches that I can reach easily – though sometimes I will work up a trunk on a ladder to remove limbs that I cannot reach from the ground. Don’t do maple or birch right now, however, as they will “bleed” sap in quantity.

As much as I enjoy visiting a city, I’m a country boy. I need to go outside most days and do a little work on my landscape. I sometimes wonder if I’ll ever retire from writing so a can putter all day. It’s a temptation.

Henry Homeyer is the author of 4 gardening books. Go to his Web site www.Gardening-Guy.com for more information about gardening. His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net

Filed under Article · Tagged with acid rain, japanese honeysuckle, spring garden clean up, sugar maples, weed wrench

Choose Something New to Grow this Year

Posted on Wednesday, March 14, 2012 · Leave a Comment

Before we launch into this week’s article…

Gardening Classes with Henry

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

For more information go to www.avagallery.org or call 603-448-3117.

Choose Something New to Grow this Year

Spring is coming, spring is coming! The robins and red-winged blackbirds are back. Cardinals are singing their mating songs. It’s too early to do anything outside in the garden – or even for starting most things by seed indoors. But this is the time to make decisions, buy seeds if you haven’t, and plan. I want to offer some ideas about plants you may not usually grow – but should.

Kossack Kohlrabi - Image by Johnny's Seeds

       President George H.W. Bush hated broccoli. I can’t imagine why. Broccoli is not only tasty fresh, it’s great all winter if you freeze and store it properly. But maybe, if he reads this column on the internet (www.Gardening-guy.com), he’ll be willing to try one of the lesser known broccoli relatives that I grow and love. Happy Rich is one. Piracicaba is the other. Let me sing their virtues.

        Happy Rich is a hybrid green created by crossing broccoli with something called gailon or Chinese kale. According to the Johnny’s seed catalog (www.johnnyseeds.com), it is just 55 days to harvest and produces lots of florets that “have an excellent sweet broccoli flavor”. My standard broccoli, ‘Diplomat’ is 68 days to harvest – about 2 weeks longer.

       I love the flavor of Happy Rich – and the name, even though it has not, as yet, made me rich. I sometimes eat the leaves and stems, too. They steam up nicely, and the stems don’t get woody the way broccoli stems do. And if you go away for a week and the florets turn into full blossoms, they are still tasty! It produces until late fall.

       Selected in Brazil for heat tolerance, Piracicaba (pronounced “peer-a-Cee’ca-bah”) is another broccoli-type plant that does not produce a big head, but produces lots of side shoots. It is like Happy Rich in almost all ways. I have grown it a few times, but never saved any seeds. My usual source doesn’t have it this year, but Google helped me find seeds: Hudson Valley Seed Library (www. seedlibrary.org) has it. This is a small seed company that values locally grown, open pollinated seeds. Membership (not required) is $25 and you get 10 packs of seeds free! I joined, and ordered lots of seeds, including some very interesting tomato varieties.

Salsify - Image by Johnny's Seeds

       Unlike Happy Rich, piracicaba is open pollinated: it is not a hybrid, so I can save seeds. Let me digress here for a moment: modern hybrid seeds often produce plants with desirable qualities. Hybrids are created by crossing 2 specific parents. But you can’t generally do this yourself, as often the parent plants are not commercially available. And controlling pollen flow can be complicated. But if a catalog calls a plant “open pollinated” or “heirloom”, you can save seeds –though some insect-pollinated heirlooms need a considerable distance between varieties to prevent cross pollination). Squashes and pumpkins, for example, hybridize to create the “monsters” growing in your compost pile.

       Rutabagas are wonderful root vegetables – I am still eating some from last summer. They look like turnips, but are sweeter and nicer. I’ve never had any pests or diseases on my plants, and they produce lots of food. I boil mine, and often mash them like potatoes, or use orange juice instead of milk for a slightly different flavor.

       Then there is kale. Some years I put 50 quart bags of kale in the freezer so that I can use kale in soups and stir fries all year. The great thing about kale is that, unlike spinach, it doesn’t lose its texture when frozen or cooked. I blanch the kale for about a minute in boiling water before freezing (so that the enzymes that cause aging are destroyed) and it tastes fresh and wonderful right from the freezer many months after picking.

       Kohlrabi is one more lesser-known vegetable you might want to try this year – I love it. It comes in both purple and green skinned varieties. It is a funny looking plant with stems coming out of the above-ground thickened stem that is the edible part. I like it raw in salads or cooked in a stir fry. Most varieties are baseball-sized and only 38-45 days to harvest. This year I am trying one from Johnny’s Seeds called ‘Kossak’ which is 80 days to harvest, but gets to be 8 inches in diameter, and keeps in storage for 4 months!

Scorzonera - Image by Johnny's Seeds

Since I am advising you to expand your gardening and cooking palate, I will do so, too. This year I will plant salsify and scorzonera, two long, irregular-shaped root crops. Scorzonera has black skin and white flesh; salsify is white skinned and is sometimes called oyster plant. Thomas Jefferson loved it, and grew it in quantity – which encourages me to try it. Roots of both are 8-10 inches long, so it needs loose, deep soil, which I have. I found seed at Johnny’s Seeds and will plant some directly in the soil once it warms up.

Cooking is the handmaiden of gardening. If you are adventurous in the kitchen, try some new veggies in the garden this year. If you discover an exceptional variety, please let me know! Just go to my Web site (www.Gardening-guy.com) to contact me.

Henry Homeyer is the author of 4 gardening books. His latest is Organic Gardening (Not Just) in the Northeast: A Hands-On, Month-by-Month Guide.

Filed under Article · Tagged with george w. bush, happy rich broccoli, kohlrabi, planting salsify

Growing Roses

Posted on Wednesday, March 7, 2012 · Leave a Comment

Before we launch into this week’s article…

Gardening Classes with Henry

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

For more information go to www.avagallery.org or call 603-448-3117.

Growing Roses

When I read a new gardening book I generally read it with a pen in hand. If I see something of special interest, I make a check mark in the margin. If I read something I agree with, and want to pass on to others, I underline.

William Baffin: Zone 2/3 8 Ft. Climber

When I learn something important, I make a star in the margin. I recently finished reading – and marking up – Roses for New England: A Guide to Sustainable Rose Gardening by Mike and Angelina Chute of East Providence, R.I. The whole book is marked up and has several stars. If you’ve been leery of growing roses, this book de-mystifies the process and gives you all the information you need to succeed.

March may seem like a funny time for reading about roses, but it makes sense to me: we have time to read now, before the gardening season begins. And if you want to order special roses, it takes some time make and receive an order. Bare root roses need to be planted while dormant – and while available. The Chutes recommend planting bare root roses in April or October.

The book describes 6 easy steps to success:

1. Select good plants. They have 150 suggestions for roses that are winter hardy and disease resistant. Steer clear of roses that have spots, blemishes or disease. Don’t buy a potted rose with wrinkled canes – it’s dehydrated.

2. Start with good soil. Test the pH: it should be between 6 and 6.8. Add lots of organic matter into a large planting

Nearly Wild: Zone 4/5, 3 Ft. Tall

hole, and some limestone if needed.

3. Plant in a sunny location. Six hours of sunshine is needed for lots of blossoms.

4. Provide plenty of water. Water deeply, up to 5 gallons per week in hot times. Do not get the leaves wet.

5. Fertilize 3 or 4 times in the course of a summer. They use a combination of 10-10-10 and slow-release organic fertilizers, and sometimes give liquid fish fertilizers as a supplement to get more blossoms. As an organic gardener, I do little fertilizing and still do fine – my soil is good.

6. Manage pests and diseases by “maintaining strong, healthy roses right from the start… Healthy plants have tougher immune systems”.

Although the authors recognize that some gardeners will want to use chemicals, they use no chemicals for insects, and rarely for fungus. A stiff stream of water from the hose will wash off aphids and spider mites, they explain, and hand picking beetles is better than spraying. If you spray for insects, the beneficial insects are killed along with the pest insects.

Chute's Garden

If you purchase bare root roses, you may be troubled by the question of how deep to plant them (I know I have been, at times). We’ve all learned not to bury the trunk flare (the natural base) of a tree or shrub, but roses are not the same. Looking at a bare root rose, you can see where it has been grafted onto a rootstock, which is called the bud union. That union should be 2-4 inches below the final grade of the soil. The colder the climate, the deeper the roots. I plant 4 inches deep for Zone 4.

Pruning roses is another problem area for many gardeners, but one easily and simply explained in Roses for New England. Mike and Angelina explain that some roses only bloom once a year, while others bloom repeatedly. For one-time bloomers, prune after blooming. For the others, you should prune early in spring, and then after each flush of blossoms.

Knockout Bed: Zone 4/5, 5 Ft. Tall

Pruning is important for rose health, too. To prevent fungal diseases, prune to open up the bush and allow good air circulation. You can direct growth by pruning just above a bud that is pointing away from the center of the bush, instead of one pointing in towards it.

I was fascinated to read (stars in the margin of my book) that the Chutes know how to prune repeat-blooming roses to get a flush of blooms on a certain date. Each rose has a certain time interval between bloom cycles. Cutting off all spent blossoms (and pruning back the canes) after a first blooming will stimulate a second set of blossoms. The more petals, the longer the period.

The simplest floribunda roses take just 40 days to re-bloom, while heavily petaled hybrid tea roses can take 55 days. Learn the intervals on your roses, and you can have them bloom for your August tea party. The average time for

Brite Eyes Bush

re-blooming roses is 50 days. Of course, 2 weeks of cold rain can upset that schedule.

I like that this book explains that you don’t need a hazmat suit to protect yourself from all the chemicals that were used in the past. Buy roses that are disease resistant, plant them well, and they will resist most diseases – and make you swoon. To learn more about roses, go to the authors’ Web site, www.rosesolutions.net. You can order your own copy of the book there, too.

Henry’s WEB EXTRAS:

Julia Child: Zone 6, 4 Ft. Tall

All The Rage: Zone 4, 3-4 Ft. Tall

Heritage: Zone 5, 4 Ft. Tall

Brite Eyes: Zone 5, 6-8 Ft. Tall

Filed under Article · Tagged with all the rage rose, growing roses, Henry Homeyer, julia child rose, knockout roses, Mike and Angela Chute, pruning roses, roses, roses for new england

Starting Seedlings Indoors

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Starting Seedlings Indoors

As winter morphs into spring, I get antsy. I want to start growing things. Even though it is still too early for starting most things by seed, it is the right time to plant artichokes, onions, peppers and leeks indoors. Tomatoes? Not until April. Squash? Not until May.

Whatever and whenever you start, there are several variables that need to be controlled: light level, moisture, available fertilizer and temperature. Pay attention to these factors and you will do well. The first thing I do each year is get out my lights. Starting seedlings on windowsills really doesn’t work for most things. Little seedlings get tall and leggy, reaching for light if all they get is a few hours of sunshine in a window.

My lights were an investment, but have paid for themselves many times over the years. I start 200-300 seedlings each year and seeds are much cheaper than seedlings bought in 6-packs at the nursery. And I often start 20 kinds of tomatoes and half a dozen types of hot peppers – most of which I would never find for sale.

This year I have upgraded my lights. The old T-12 (fat style) fluorescent tubes lose their potency over time, and are less efficient than the modern, thinner T-8 tubes. And the T-12 lights are being phased out due to federal energy regulations. So if you have old lights, think about upgrading. LED lights are also available, and while considerably more expensive than fluorescents, they are more energy efficient. I got some from Sunshine Systems (www.sunshine-systems.com or 866-576-5868).

If you don’t want to invest in a plant stand, a card table will do if you’re not starting too many plants. Still, I like my stand because it will hold 2 flats of plants on each shelf, and has 3 shelves – that’s enough for about 200 seedlings. Gardener’s Supply (www.gardeners.com or 888-833-1412) has some nice plant stands, but they are not cheap. Try your local garden center, too, or think about making your own. If buying, look for a stand that allows you to raise the lights as plants grow – 6 inches above the plants is ideal. One last thing: only run your lights 14 hours a day. They need their beauty rest, too.

When seeds first germinate they are very sensitive to drying out, so I like the clear plastic covers that are sold to fit over flats. They hold the moisture like little greenhouses. If you use them, plant things that germinate at the same rate in any given flat – germination times can vary from 3 to 18 days, depending on the plant species. Remove the covers as soon as plants touch them.

Don’t keep your seedlings soggy. Let the potting mix dry out before watering. You may need to water lightly every day as plants get bigger, however.

If you buy potting soil or seed starting mix, it is mostly peat moss, which has little nutrition to offer a plant. It is used for its ability to hold moisture. I suggest mixing it 50-50 with compost – either your own homemade stuff or the kind that comes in a bag.

Even with compost added to the mix, as your plants get bigger, you will need to offer some plant food. I don’t recommend using the chemical versions. My plants, once in the garden, will have to grow without chemical fertilizer, so I don’t want to give them any now. I believe that my seedling’s root systems will be more vigorous if they are not given lots of soluble chemical fertilizer.

The options for natural fertilizers are many. You can buy fish or seaweed fertilizers such as Neptune’s Harvest. Some fish fertilizers (made as emulsions) have an odor that may offend the nostrils of sensitive people. Neptune’s Harvest claims theirs is not stinky due to their special hydrolyzing process. Mega Green is another brand of fish fertilizer made by hydrolysis; it combats odor with natural mint essences, too.

Temperature is a key factor, too. I have electric heat mats that I place under my flats – bottom heat helps germination. These mats are sold at garden centers and may seem expensive, but if you grow peppers, for example, they really help. Once seedlings are up and growing I remove the mats– too much heat will push growth too fast (though sometimes I keep my peppers on them longer – they love heat).

I like 65-70 degrees during the day and 10 degrees cooler at night. A spare bedroom is a good place to grow things – you may be able to regulate the temperature by opening a window or turning off the radiator.

Finally, I like to move tomato and pepper seedlings into 2 or 3 inch pots once they are 4-6 weeks along. This allows the plants to have bigger root systems and minimizes root crowding. Our seasons can be cut short by fall frosts, so I like to give my plants any advantage I can.

Identifying Trees in Winter

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Most of us enjoying knowing the names of our acquaintances – including trees. It’s tougher to identify trees in winter because most have no leaves, which is how we generally recognize trees. But by observing overall shape, bark, branching patterns, buds and the presence or absence of leaves, you should be able to pick out several common trees quite easily.

The trees discussed here include 5 that keep all or some of their leaves; the rest lose all their leaves. The first group includes white pine, Canadian hemlock and spruce, all of which have green needles – their form of leaves. Oaks and beeches are broad-leafed trees that hold all or some of their leaves, though the leaves are dead and brown. Young trees hold more of the dead leaves than more mature ones.

White pine (Pinus strobus) has clusters of 5 soft needles, each about 3 inches long. Branches grow in whorls off the trunk; each year the tree grows just one new set of branches, so you can see how fast they grow by observing the distance between whorls on the main trunk. From a distance you can see clumps of needles pointing up near the top of the tree.

Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) has short, flat needles that feel soft to the touch and that have a white line on the underneath side of each. It is one of the few trees in the woods that can grow in deep shade – as well as full sun.

There are several kinds of spruce (Picea spp.), but all share this characteristic, which will separate them from hemlock trees: turn over a branch and observe the color of the leaves. If the needles on the top side and the bottom of the bough are the same color, it is a spruce. Spruce needles are pointy and sharp. Spruce hold more snow on their branches than other evergreens, too, often leaving little snow beneath the tree.

American beech (Fagus grandifolia) is most easily identified by its smooth gray bark; some older trees have bark that is scarred by a fungus. Their buds are up to an inch long with sharp pointy ends; they are shaped a bit like little cigars. Young beech trees hold lots of leaves but the older ones tend to lose most. Leaves are 2-5 inches long, oval, and have serrated edges.

Oaks ( Quercus spp.) also hold at least a few leaves. The leaves are lobed, often ending in a sharp point. There are a few oaks that have different shaped leaves, but you probably won’t come across one. Acorns are a dead giveaway, too, though most acorns have fallen by now.

Buds and small (side) branches are either opposite each other on a branch or they alternate – one here, one

farther along on the other side. Only 3 common trees have opposite branching: the maples (many species), ash (4 species), and horse chestnut. There are several kinds of shrubs that have opposite branching, including viburnums, most dogwoods, lilacs and honeysuckles. Don’t be deceived by the fact that often twigs are broken off, so that the branching pattern may not appear at first glance to be opposite.

Of the many kinds of maples (Acer spp.), sugar and red maples are common in most woods. At the end of each branch you will see 3 buds: a terminal bud and a bud on each side of it. The buds are sharply pointed on sugar maples, less so on red maples. Red maple buds get redder as the winter progresses. Get to know a few big old sugar maples during sugaring season, and you will soon recognize the color of bark and the overall shape. Red maples tend to have branches that spread less than sugar maples, and they can live in wet places (but sugar maples rarely do).

White ash (Fraxinus americanus) also has opposite buds, but they are much more rounded than those on maples. The key characteristic for me is the bark, which is furrowed into diamond shaped areas on mature trees. You will also see that small branches on an ash are also much less delicate than those on a maple. Looking up at branches, you will see that they have lots of lumps and bumps near their tips.

White or paper birch (Betula papyrifera) is one of the best known of our native trees: it has bright, white bark that tends to peel as the tree gets bigger. Other birches include gray and yellow birches. The former has dirty gray bark; the latter has finely peeling silvery or golden bark. All have horizontal marks on the bark called lenticels. Lenticels allow air into the inner growing layer of the tree. Their twigs are fine, and may have catkins (narrow pollen-producing structures 2 inches long or so) towards the top of the tree.

One of our most common trees is the poplar (Populus deltoides). Poplars are fast growing, short-lived trees that jump up anywhere, even in poor soil along roadsides. They tolerate wet or dry locations and are immune to road salt. I recognize them from the color of the bark – it is greenish to putty-colored, particularly up high. It is often an irregular-shaped tree that is considerably taller than wide.

So clip this article and take a walk in the woods. See what you can identify. And bring along a tree I.D. book to help. I like A Guide to Nature in Winter by Donald Stokes, as it has information about everything you can see outdoors in winter, not just the trees.

Henry is the author of four books and writes a self-syndicated weekly column for 12 newspapers throughout New England. You can contact Henry by e-mail at henry.homeyer@comcast.net.

Planting by the Phase of the Moon

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Planting by the Phase of the Moon

The moon attracts me the way my porch light attracts moths. I am drawn to it. I love to stare at it and I can feel its presence – particularly the full moon when I’m trying to get to sleep. Some gardeners believe that it affects plants, too, drawing up water from the soil into leaves and fruits as the moon gets bigger, pulling water and nutrients down to roots as it wanes. If the moon can affect the tides, some say, it is logical that the moon can affect our garden plants.

It’s nearly time to start artichokes, leeks and peppers indoors, so I thought I should learn more about planting by the phase of the moon. I called Sarah Milek of Cider Hill Gardens in Windsor, Vermont (www.ciderhillgardens.com) because I know she decides exactly when to plant seeds and seedlings according to the phase of the moon.

Sarah bases her decisions on a biodynamic calendar called Stella Natura: Inspiration & Practical Advice for Gardeners & Professional Growers (www.stellanatura.com). The calendar explains on the cover that it is the “Biodynamic Planting Calendar Working with Cosmic Rhythms”. She told me that the calendar indicates for every day of the year, and for every hour of the day, whether it is an auspicious time to plant, transplant, weed or harvest. Following the calendar, she says, results in quicker germination, earlier crops, and better storage capabilities of her veggies.

        Sarah Milek told me of a friend who planted onions according to the calendar. But he didn’t finish that day, and did so the next – even though the calendar said not to plant anything that day. Those onions did poorly – the crop was a total bust – but those planted according to the calendar thrived. Everything was the same except some were planted a day later – and very different results were obtained. It made me wonder.

          Stella Natura uses the phase of the moon and the position of the planets and the constellations to determine when to plant. The calendar is based on the principles of biodynamic agriculture, first proposed by an Austrian, Rudolph Steiner, in 1924.

          Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) was a philosopher and visionary. Waldorf schools are based on his educational principles, and the biodynamic movement is an outgrowth of his philosophy of agriculture. He spoke of life forces not detectable by the physical senses, yet linking together the universe and all living things. He believed that the energy of plants can be affected not only by our actions and the weather, but also by the energy of the moon, stars and planets. His philosophy of agriculture goes beyond the principles of organic farming, dealing not only with our inputs – compost instead of chemicals, for instance – but with life forces that affect our plants.

          A follower of Steiner, a German named Maria Thun, did decades of observations and record keeping to aid in determining when to plant or to work with plants. According to biodynamic principles there are four elements: earth, air, water and fire. She noticed that root crops (including potatoes, onions and leeks, which are not technically root crops) do best when sown when the moon is passing through constellations associated with the earth element. Leafy things do best when the moon is associated with the element water, flowering plants do best associated with the air, and fruits with fire. Stella Natura is based on her work.

          On a practical level, it makes sense to avoid planting leafy things during a time that is optimal for flowering plants – practitioners of this way of planting believe that this will encourage bolting. Tomatoes, beans, grains and tree fruits should be planted on a fruit day, or even a flower day (as flowers are an integral part of getting fruit).

          Stella Natura spells out very precise instructions, day-by-day, hour-by hour. During transition times, when the moon is moving from one constellation to another, or when other factors affect the energy of the cosmos, there are times when no planting should be done. These areas are indicated with gray in the hour-by-hour boxes. Sometimes these time last a full 24-hour period, other times they are for as little as 2-4 hours.

          The calendar explains that practical considerations such as the weather can and should affect when to plant, too. If you have started tomatoes indoors and the calendar specifies that the day is auspicious for planting them outdoors, do not do so if frost is predicted. I bought the calendar and shall do some lettuce plantings indoors this spring during times designated as good for leaves, some during times for flowers, and some during the blacked out parts of the calendar. This appeals to my scientific training. I vow to keep good records, and will report back to you, my faithful readers.

                    Even though I started gardening as a small boy and have been gardening for over 60 years, gardening is still a bit mysterious to me. Some years my onions are large and keep well. Other years they are smaller – or they rot. The same is true for my winter squash and other crops. So it’s time to see if the moon can help me to do better. I encourage you to do the same – and let me know what you find out.

          Henry’s Web site is www.Gardening-Guy.com. His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net.

Easy Houseplants to Brighten Your Winter

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Many a would-be gardener has been deterred from growing veggies or flowers outdoors because they’ve had a bad time with houseplants. “Garden? Not me! I’ve got a brown thumb.” If I’ve heard it once, I’ve heard it dozens of times. When I inquire, people tell me they’ve killed houseplants, even the so-called “bullet proof” ones.

More houseplants are killed by over-watering than by under-watering. Some inexperienced gardeners think they are being kind and attentive to their plants by watering often. But roots of most houseplants will rot if kept constantly wet. So my first rule of indoors plants is simple: only water a plant when the soil is dry to the touch. For most, that is no more than once a week. For some once every 3-4 weeks is adequate.

Some houseplants are grown for their blossoms and others for their lovely foliage. Foliage plants are generally the easiest: if it isn’t dead, it probably looks good.

Jade plant (Crassula ovate or C. argentea) is an easy plant that is almost trouble-free. It has thick, waxy succulent leaves that are round and shiny. The trunk is thick in mature plants, and is a smooth gray or brown. My friend Cindy Heath has one, and it languishes in her living room getting no care at all. I mean it gets little direct sunshine and if it gets a drink of water every couple of months, it’s lucky. Last summer I carried it outside on the porch for some sunshine, which prompted a growth spurt.

Jade plants are easy to propagate. Bernice Johnson of Cornish Flat, NH, showed me a jade plant that she started from a cutting 3 years ago that is now about 2 feet tall and 2 feet across. She said that to get a new plant she just snips off a short section of a branch with a leaf or two, and plants it, or sets it in water to root, then plants it. She plants her many houseplants in a mix of garden soil and compost she makes herself from leaves and garden waste. The soil drains well, which is important. She keeps the plant near a north window and waters it about once a month. I find a 50-50 mix of compost and potting soil is good for most houseplants.

Happy Griffiths of Lebanon, NH grows many houseplants, including both rosemary and bay. Those two not only produce handsome foliage, but also edible herbs for use in the kitchen. Both, she told me, like a cool environment with bright natural light. She keeps hers in an unheated sunroom that gets down below freezing on cold nights, but never very cold. Some forms of rosemary bloom annually, though other types do not.

If you grow rosemary indoors, you need to increase the water you give it starting in March, or even by mid- February. The sun is stronger, the days are longer, and the roots and leaves are beginning to grow. Even though it is a Mediterranean plant, if it gets totally dried out – as mine have in the past – the plant dies. Instead of once a week, water twice a week.

I grow clivia (Clivia spp.) as a foliage plant – it has long, shiny strap-shaped leaves and requires virtually no care. I’ve had mine for more than 10 years and have never divided it nor fertilized it. Even so, once a year it sends up a flower spike with a big cluster of orange blossoms that last for a couple of weeks. I water it very irregularly –once a month, if I think of it. It doesn’t need direct light, which is nice as I have it in a pot too big for the window sill. Its leaves stand about 30 inches tall.

Another nice foliage plant is aloe (Aloe vera)). It is a succulent that needs little watering, rarely has pests, and survives wherever you plunk it. A nice benefit is that if you cut a leaf and rub the juice on a burn or insect bite it will soothe your skin.

Bernice Johnson grows lots of old fashioned geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) that she keeps on sunny window sills. When I visited her recently she had one in full bloom in her warm kitchen that also has a wood stove. Wood stoves generally are hard on houseplants – they make rooms too hot and too dry for most. But her geraniums thrive – in part because she waters them regularly. In the spring she will cut back the long stems and put them outside, pots and all, for the summer.

I recommend that everyone have a few houseplants. I have too many (including a large banana plant, a hibiscus tree, a nice clump of papyrus and many more). Plants make the interior air more humid, and some take out pollutants. And best of all, they keep my hand in gardening activities all winter long.

Visit Henry’s Web site, www.Gardening-guy.com for more information and photos of houseplants. His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net

Another great foliage plant I grow is a banana “tree”. They don’t get woody, even in the tropics, but can get tall – even in the house. I got a small one 5 years ago and have been growing it in a large pot since then. In the summer it is outside, and in the winter I keep it in a west-facing window. Well, not in the window,but on the floor near the window. The banana has yet to produce fruit, but it has made 3 or 4 shoots that I intend to separate next summer and put in individual pots. My banana is now 4 feet tall, and has never had aphids or other pests.

The exception to the rule, “Don’t overwater” is the papyrus. It needs to grow in a constantly wet location. I planted a small one a few years ago in a nice Chinese vase that has no hole. I water until the water is saturated and standing water is above the soil line. I grow mine in an east-facing window. The stems get to be 3-feet tall, with nice lacy fronds.

Pineapple plants, decorative ones, are also on the market this year. I got one at a florist shop and it is very nice. It has a miniature pineapple on a stem above the foliage, but it will never get big – or edible.

Seed Catalogs

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

I love thumbing thought the seed catalogs, and look forward to their arrival every year. On the other hand, I do wonder about the environmental impact of having so many seed companies sending thousands upon thousands of catalogs through the mail. So I have resolved not to request any more catalogs and I have started searching for seeds on-line.

I was inspired to shop on line this year, in part, by Renee’s Garden seeds, which only sells seeds from its Web site (www.reneesgarden.com). Her Web site is very easy to use. Click once, you have a basic description, cost and a drawing. Click on “How to Plant and Grow”, and you get lots of info. Click on “Photos”, and there they are – especially helpful for flowers. I have learned from her articles that are also on the Web site. (see Kohlrabi, for instance)

          In my on-line search for interesting catalogs I found an old friend, Dan Nagengast, who now owns a seed company in Kansas called Seeds from Italy. (www.GrowItalian.com). Dan was in the Peace Corps in Mali, West Africa, when I was there. I called him right up and learned that he and his wife have been market gardeners for 20 years, and recently bought the company. He told me that seeds from Italy do well here, and that his company has seed racks throughout New England.

          I use lots of fennel seeds in cooking (they add a nice licorice flavor), and love fennel bulbs for use in salads, but have not grown fennel in ages. Dan confirmed that there are 2 different kinds of fennel – bulbing fennel and a wild fennel that produces flowers and seeds that are wonderfully powerful, adding a licorice flavor to soups and stews. I shall order seeds of the wild one, Fennel Sylvatico. I’ll also try their chickory, a green that Dan recommended, and a few kinds of beans – they sell 35 named varieties!

          I grow lots of heirloom seeds – varieties that have been around for a long time and that are good for seed saving. Baker Creek Seeds (www.rareseeds.com) is one of the leading companies for heirlooms – their online catalog boasts of 1400 varieties this year. But, quite frankly, finding what you want with that many varieties is a bit overwhelming for me. A paper catalog would be easier to manipulate. Their honesty is overwhelming. Describing one called “Big White Pink Stripes Tomato”, they write “Lovely big, globe fruit … a sweet tropical taste with hints of melon. A lovely tomato with low yields; yes, low. But who cares? It is so gorgeous!” I’ve never seen a catalog admit to low yields.

          A great source for organic tomato seeds is in Carmel, CA: Tomato Fest (www.tomatofest.com). Gary Ibsen grows about 600 varieties of tomatoes. Like Renees’ Seeds, they only sell from their web site. They have a PDF file that you can print out to read if you must –but it’s 82 pages. They have been growing tomatoes for many years (and until 2008) they had a tomato festival each fall, hence the Web address. I like the fact that the web site allows you to search for things like “Cooler climate varieties”, or” Gary’s Personal Favorites”. Unlike almost all other seed companies, they grow all their own seeds.

          Then I spent some time on the Seed Saver’s Exchange Web site. The Seed Savers Exchange is a non-profit organization that is ”a member supported organization that saves and shares the heirloom seeds of our garden heritage, forming a living legacy that can be passed down through generations.” Anyone can buy seeds from them. If you become a member you get the seeds savers exchange yearbook which connects you to other seed savers who grow and save heirloom seeds (and you can sell your seeds, if you wish). This year there are over 20,000 kinds so seeds available to you. You also get a quarterly magazine and other benefits, including a 10% discount on seeds.

          I love the names of heirloom seeds, they tell a story, or the opening line, if you have an imagination. There is the Lazy Housewife Bean, a tomato called Black from Tula (which turns out to be from Russia, not Auntie

Tula), or the Rat Tailed Radish (Native to South Asia. Grown for the crisp, pungent, edible seedpods (up to 6 inches long) and not for the roots. Pods should be gathered before fully mature and eaten raw, pickled, or chopped in salads. 50 days.). The Seed Saver Exchange Catalog online is not overwhelming – they only have a tiny percentage of the varieties offered by members. About 40 kinds of beans, for example, not hundreds. It gives planting specifications and a photo for each.

And of course, seed racks are great for purchasing seeds. I am a big fan of supporting local businesses and of course, there are no shipping charges for seeds purchased at your local feed and grain store. I like buying seeds of known companies, not the cheapie seeds of some big box stores as I have no idea how they were grown, or where. And of course, organic seeds are better even if sometimes a tad pricier.

For a list of seed companies Henry likes, visit www.Gardening-guy.com. Henry is the author of 4 gardening books. His latest, Organic Gardening (Not Just) in the Northeast, is available online and at bookstores throughout New England.

Web Extra: In addition to the catalogs mentioned above, I buy seeds from lots of companies, but here are some I like best, and what I like about them:

Johnny’s Select Seeds (www.johnnyseeds.com): This is a company that has been selling seeds under the same management for more than 35 years. It’s now an employee-owned company based in Winslow, Maine, and the founder, Rob Johnston is still running it. They supply a lot of farmers I’ve interviewed, which tells me that their seeds are top quality, reasonably priced and reliable year-after-year. They have a great selection of seeds as well as tools, row covers and other gardening/farming supplies. They sell both organic and conventional seeds.

High Mowing Seeds (www.highmowingseeds.com): These folks only sell organic seeds, and are located in Wolcott, Vermont. I like buying seeds from them because they test seeds in Vermont – over 800 varieties every year. I’ve talked to the owner, Tom Stearns, who is in the business not just to make money, but to help change the world. Their Web site explains their philosophy, which says, in part: “We believe in a hopeful and inspired view of the future based on better stewardship for our planet. Everyday that we are in business, we are growing; working to provide an essential component in the re-building of our healthy food systems: the seeds.”

Seeds of Change is another nice company (www.seedsofchange.com). They are fully organic.

Flower Shows of New England

AVA Gallery, Lebanon. Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Each year I rejoice at the coming of the flower shows – they bring a taste of spring. By the time they arrive I‘m more than ready for blooming daffodils and tulips; I hunger for leafy trees and shrubs – even indoors. And I like their ambience: it’s like strolling down the midway at a country fair – but the products are different. Instead of trying to win a bear, I take a chance buying new and different bulbs or plants I can’t get in the ground for another 3 months. The hawkers, instead of selling temporary tattoos and Harley tee shirts, are selling garlic peeler/dicers and handy gadgets for cleaning floors.

The season starts February 11-12 with the New Hampshire Orchid Society’s annual show in Nashua, NH at the Radisson Hotel. Admission is $10, $6 for seniors. It’s a small specialty show, but nice. www.nhorchids.org.

The first big one, The Rhode Island Show, occurs February 23-26, and I can’t wait! I went last year for the first time and loved it. They have a wonderful line-up of speakers and educators showing slides and sharing wisdom. There is a real independent bookstore with hundreds of different titles of gardening books – I could stand there all afternoon, just thumbing through them. There are artists, craft producers and –get this – sand castles ten feet tall! (Someone brings in truckloads of sand and artists make a wonderland of castles with moats and gnomes and fairy princesses. It was fabulous last year, and will be there this year, too)

Last year the Rhode Island Show had competitions to see who could make the best sculpture using vegetables and fruit. There were garden hats decorated with flowers and –can you believe it? – women’s bathing suits made of leaves and flowers (displayed on mannequins, not gardeners!) There was beautiful stonework for inspiration, and lots and lots of plants – this year there will be 100,000 blossoms, I’m told. They are adding a food and wine section to the show in conjunction with Johnson and Wales College of Culinary Arts, among others. The show is at the Rhode Island Convention Center, Providence. Tickets $18-15. www.flowershow.com.

That weekend (February 24-26) is also the Connecticut Flower Show in Hartford. I went last year after leaving Providence and it was pretty crowded that Saturday – Saturdays anywhere are the busiest, and to be avoided if possible. It has over 300 booths and 80 workshops to attend over the course of the weekend. This year the theme is “Fabulous Fifties”. Tickets are $16. www.ctflowershow.com.

Next comes the Flower and Patio Show in Worcester, Massachusetts at the DCU Center March 2-4. I’ve never attended, but from what I’ve heard a major emphasis is on patios, outdoor furniture and the like. Tickets are $10. www.centralmaflowershow.com.

The Portland, Maine show is March 8-11 at the Portland Company Complex. Tickets are $15. www.portlandcompany.com.

If you don’t mind traveling, the Philadelphia Flower Show is March 4-11. Admission is $27, but the show is huge – and has gorgeous displays – it’s worth a visit if you can afford the trip. www.theflowershow.com.

The Boston Flower Show is always a big event. It’s at the Seaport World Trade Center, March 14-18. I went last year and liked it despite the crowds. Admission is $20. Lots of displays, lots of garden paraphernalia for sale- plan a full day. This year’s theme is “First Impressions” – stressing the “Wow! Factor”. www.masshort.org.

New Hampshire has the Seacoast Home and Garden Show each year at the Whittemore Arena in Durham. This year the dates are March 24-25 and tickets cost $8. www.homegardenflowershow.com.

Bangor, ME has a show April 6-8 at Bangor Auditorium. Tickets are only $5. www.bangorgardenshow.com.

The Vermont show, always one of my favorites, is now held only every other year and is not happening this year.

And for those of you with deep pockets, there is the Chelsea Flower Show in London, England May 22-26. Definitely on my list of places to go before I kick the bucket, I’ve never been, alas. It sounds incredible. www.rhs.org.uk/shows.

I try to go to at least 3 flower shows each year. There is something about the scent of flowers in winter that draws me in, and there is always much to learn at the lectures and demonstrations. Maybe I’ll see you at one.

Henry Homeyer’s web site is www.Gardening-guy.com. Go there to see photos of last year’s shows. His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net

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Flower Shows of New England

“Organic Gardening – Not Just in the Northeast”