Spring Activities in the Garden

Posted on Friday, April 15, 2022 · Leave a Comment 

I’ve finally had a few days of dry weather with temperature in the 50’s, so have been able to start some spring cleanup. Some of my beds are still too wet, so I will wait on working there until my feet don’t sink in. Walking on wet soil compacts it, ruining soil structure.

 

This aluminum shovel is lightweight and good for cleanup

My first chore is always to rake up the sand and gravel that the snow plows leave on my lawn. I use a straight-edged shovel that is made of aluminum and is sold for barn cleanup. I rake the sand into the broad shovel, and dump it into a wheelbarrow. If I see that the grass is being pulled up, I wait until later, when the grass has fully woken up.

 

Next on my list is to pick up any downed branches. Winter always does some “pruning” of dead branches. If I can reach any jagged tears where branches have broken off, I snip or saw them back to the trunk or the branch where it originated. And this is a good time to take of those plastic wraps that protect young trees from mice and voles.

 

Remove mulch in the vegetable garden to allow soil to dry and warm up

I don’t generally rake leaves out of my flower beds in the fall, as I like the extra protection against erosion and cold temperatures they provide. But that means that bulb plants are covered now, and the ground is insulated from the spring sun. I want the soil to warm up. So I try to clean up places where I know there are spring bulbs as early as possible.

 

If the daffodils are poking through, I use my fingers to pull back the leaves. I fear that a rake will damage the tender stems and flower buds. In other places where bulbs are not up yet, I use a rake and gently rake off the leaves. Sometimes I will bring along a scrap of plywood or a 6-inch plank to stand on as I work, minimizing compaction.

 

Blueberry fruit buds are fat, leaf buds are not

This is when I prune blueberry bushes. By now it is easy to identify the fat, round fruit buds as opposed to the skinny little leaf buds. I remove branches that aren’t producing fruit, allowing for more sunshine to get into my plants.

 

For the past few years a foreign fruit fly has badly damaged blueberry crops. The spotted-winged drosophila (SWD) infests ripening fruit, causing it to get mushy and unpleasant. This is in contrast to ordinary, native fruit flies that only lay eggs in over-ripe or rotting fruit.

 

At present he only way I know that organic growers can prevent damage is to cover bushes with row cover or a very fine mesh. But that is a big bother when it is time to start picking. The SWD appears fairly late in summer, so early-ripening varieties can sometimes avoid them.

 

Of course if you haven’t cut back all your perennials, spring is a good time to do that. I like to wait until spring to cut back some perennial flowers with seeds. Finches and other seed-eaters enjoy the seeds, particularly when bigger, greedy and aggressive birds or squirrels are hogging the seeds at the feeder.

 

It’s too late to rake here. I’ll remove leaves by hand to avoid damaging buds

In the fall I usually do a good job of weeding and mulching the vegetable garden with fallen leaves or straw. In the spring I rake the mulch of my wide raised beds so that the sun can help to dry out and warm up the beds. I leave the mulch in the walkways to inhibit weeds, and later I will add new mulch around my tomatoes and other plants.

 

My roses haven’t woken up yet, or not by the time I wrote this, but will soon. I have a dozen or more roses and most are very hardy. I particularly like the ‘Knockout’ rose series. They are very resistant to diseases, do not seem to attract Japanese beetles or rose chafers, and are very vigorous. But each spring I need to cut back the canes to a point where the tissue has not been winter damaged.

 

You can easily tell if the stems of your roses are alive by rubbing a stem gently with your thumb nail. If it shows green, it is alive. If it is not green, it is dead. Cut back any stem to a place where there is a bud on tissue that is alive. Or you can wait until they leaf out, and cut back the dead parts. If you have a few shoots that got much taller than the rest of the plant, you should cut those back for aesthetic reasons.

 

 Spring is also a good time to pay attention to the “volunteer” shrubs and trees that show up uninvited. There are several invasive species that birds plant seemingly “willy-nilly” anywhere they perch. Seeds pass through them and start growing without your help. But you should pull these shrubs and trees before they get so big you need a backhoe!

 

Here are some to look for: bush honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.), barberry (Berberis thunbergii), burning bush (Euonymus alatus), Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellate), Blunt-leaved privet (Ligustrum obtusifolium) and the vine Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus). Norway maple (Acer platanoides) and common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) are trees that also common and invasive.

 

Why worry about invasives now? They are more obvious in the landscape. Most get a jump on the growing season by putting on leaves while our native plants are still asleep. Plus, you have time now. So go dig them out if you can. Cutting them down usually just stimulates them to set up many new plants from their roots.

 

Later, when spring warms up, we will be planting our veggies and annual flowers so we won’t have time for many of these activities. So get out there on the next nice day.

 

Henry is the author or 4 gardening books, and a regular speaker at garden clubs. Reach him at henry.homeyer@comcast.net. 

Filed under Article · Tagged with blueberry buds, spring garden clean up

Outdoor Work in Early Spring

Before we launch into this week’s article…

Gardening Classes with Henry

 Lebanon College: Gardening: A Practical Workshop. Garden writer Henry Homeyer will teach you the basics of organic vegetable and flower gardening. From garden design to seed-starting , planting, watering, weeding, mulching, and harvesting, this course will give each student practical knowledge of gardening. Tuesday nights from 6:30-8:30 for 5 weeks, April 3-May 2.Contact Lebanon College to reserve a spot for this5-part workshop www.lebanoncollege.edu or call 603-448-2445.

 AVA Gallery, Lebanon.  Henry will teach 3 classes at AVA Gallery this spring. You may sign up for one or all of these workshops:

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Starting Flowers from Seed
April 9; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Perfect Perennials for the Upper Valley Garden
April 23; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

Sculpting the Living Landscape: Organic Techniques for Enriching Soil and Managing Pests
May 7; Monday, 6:30–8:30pm; One 2-hour class

For more information go to www.avagallery.org or call 603-448-3117.

Outdoor Work in Early Spring

     Despite a spate of warm weather, it’s still early spring. In my world maple sap is running, a little snow is still in the woods and foolish (early bird) robins are losing weight while waiting for the earthworms to surface. It’s still too early to rake my lawn as it’s pretty soggy. My flower beds would suffer from soil compaction if I were to step inside to clean them up. So what can a gardener do?
 

Sapling growing near mature pine

     This is a great time to clean up scrub brush and small trees along stone walls, close to the house and around stately old trees. If you take a look around your property, you will probably see many “volunteer” trees that are growing where they shouldn’t. Now is a good time to snip them back or pull them out before they get large.
 
     Seeds are amazing. Each has the genetic material to create a new plant. They can stay dormant for years, just waiting for the right growing conditions. But they have flaws: they have no eyes – and little common sense. That’s right. A seed will grow wherever ends up, even if it has no chance to reach maturity at its location. So a maple seed may germinate an inch from a mature pine tree, for example. It has no good future there, but it will try anyway. Volunteer trees and shrubs are easy to remove when young. Ideally, you can pull them and they will never come back to bother you again.

     There is a tool that can help you do so: the Weed Wrench (www.weedwrench.com). They come in 4 sizes, from mini to large depending on the size trees you need to remove – and your budget. A Weed Wrench has a mouthpiece that bites down on a trunk, and a steel lever to pull out the culprit using the mechanical advantage of its long arm. They weigh from 5 lbs to 24 pounds and cost between $82 and $189. One might be good investment for your garden club or Scout troop – many people could share it.
 
     But even small trees may have extensive root systems, so if you wish to do a quick-n-easy clean up, go outside with your loppers and get to work. Cut off stems as close to the ground as you can. But be forewarned: many trees will coppice, or send up several new shoots around the stump.
 
     One of the most common invasive shrubs in my neighborhood is the Japanese honeysuckle. It is common along the edges of fields, stonewalls and driveways. A single bush can get to be 10 feet tall and wide. They produce pleasant cream-colored flowers in early summer, and birds like the seeds – which they distribute widely. I cut several big honeysuckles on my property last fall, and just cut off a few more recently. I know they may come back from the roots, but they won’t bloom and produce seeds in their first year, so I am reducing seed production. And if I can remember to cut them back every year or two, I will slow their spread.

Loppers used for brush clean-up

 
     Trees compete for nutrients, water and sunlight. If you have an aging maple or other tree that is not in perfect health, cleaning up the scrub around it seems like a logical way to help. Sugar maples, in general, are suffering due to the acid rain that falls here in New England (due to pollutants in the air from coal-burning power plants). Acid rain dissolves calcium in the soil, and allows it to wash away or leach deeper into the soil. Maples in particular suffer when growing in low calcium conditions. So removing vigorous young trees and shrubs from around the maples – their competition – should help.
 
     You can also help your old maples by spreading some limestone around the trees at this time of year. I distribute limestone in a circle about 100 feet in diameter around an aging maple each fall or spring. I don’t do it scientifically, so many pounds per hundred square feet. I just give a light top dressing each year, and know that it helps.
 
     Another reason I get rid of scrub brush is pure aesthetics. Small trees and shrubs distract the eye from the beauty of a stone outcropping or wall. I like simplicity and neatness in my landscape. Scruffy stuff is akin to an unmade bed. Clean it up, and it’s easier to notice the texture of the bark of a mature maple or beech.
 

Saw used for small trees

     Another chore that can be done now is to remove some lower branches of trees alongside your stone wall. In keeping with my desire to simplify the landscape and expose ledge or stonework, I like to cut off branches that I can reach easily – though sometimes I will work up a trunk on a ladder to remove limbs that I cannot reach from the ground. Don’t do maple or birch right now, however, as they will “bleed” sap in quantity.
 
     As much as I enjoy visiting a city, I’m a country boy. I need to go outside most days and do a little work on my landscape. I sometimes wonder if I’ll ever retire from writing so a can putter all day. It’s a temptation.
 

Henry Homeyer is the author of 4 gardening books. Go to his Web site www.Gardening-Guy.com for more information about gardening.  His e-mail is henry.homeyer@comcast.net

Copyright © 2014 Henry Homeyer

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