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Gardening in Difficult Conditions
Rowan seems to understand he needs to stay out of the raised beds
First, if you have a big rain, the best thing you can do is STAY OUT OF THE GARDEN. Wet soil compacts when you walk on it, making it less hospitable for plants because they get nutrients, water and oxygen through their roots. You already know better than to walk in your growing beds, both in the vegetable and flower gardens. But your lawn will suffer, too, if you walk on it while wet, and your footprints may make it lumpy.
Pea stone pathway in primrose garden
We also make pathways through large beds. We have a bed of candelabra primroses (Primula japonica) that is approximately 25 feet by 30 feet in size that contains hundreds of these beauties. We designed and built three pathways through and around it. And although we cannot access it all, it helps.
Flat stones enhance this walkway
For our walkways we put down landscape fabric and pin it in place with landscape staples. We avoid woven landscape fabric, as weeds tend to grow through it. We use an almost see-through spun fabric, which does well by us. We cover the fabric with a 2-inch layer of quarter-inch washed pea stone that I buy at a gravel company and bring it home in my trusty, rusty 2004 Toyota pickup truck. Lastly, we spread some finely ground bark mulch along the edges of the path to help keep weeds and soil from migrating into the walkway. Steel edging would be good, but it’s expensive.
This homemade raised bed drains well in rainy times
Raised beds are great in wet times. I have a wooden one I built using rough sawn pine that is 16-inches tall. I filled it with a mixture of garden soil and compost I buy loose in bulk. You can buy both at good garden centers, and a 50-50-mix works well, though I sometimes add peat moss and perlite if the mix is too heavy. In these recent rains my raised bed stood happily above the water-filled walkway around it.
Sanguisorba gets taller and will need another ring of string later
What I prefer for peonies and other tall plants is to install three stakes around them, and then encircle the clump about two-thirds the way up with green garden string. For plants like peonies, I use bamboo stakes. For taller, heavier plants like New York ironweed or ‘Henry Eiler’ Rudbeckia, I use four-foot long one-inch hardwood grade stakes that I paint green to disguise them. I drive them into the ground with a three-pound sledge.
A Few Tips for Growing Great Flowers
Peony ‘Festiva maxima’ that my grandmother grew
Peonies, primroses and barrenwort (which is usually referred to by its scientific name, Epimedium) are blooming in my gardens. I recommend that you buy these now, while in bloom, so you know what you are getting – and if you like them as much as I do.
Primula vialii is not commonly sold but is wonderful
Arlene Perkins of Montpelier, VT is an expert grower of primroses. She told me long ago that all primroses like to grow under old apple trees. The partial shade is right for most, and the soil is naturally enriched by dropping leaves and fruit over time. It is under a cluster of old wild apples that I have had my best luck with primroses, particularly the candelabra or Japanese primrose (Primula japonica). They have multiplied by seed and root from a few planted 20 years ago to over 500 plants, I estimate.
This newly planted Epimedium ‘Pretty in Pink’ will develop into a 2-ft wide plant
The colors I grow range from pure purple to red to pink to white, with others a variety of yellows. Again, I suggest buying them in bloom – now – so you can see if the blossoms are prominent above the leaves, or hidden below. The common red one (Epimedium rubrum) blooms early in spring but hides its flowers under its leaves, which I don’t like. But it forms such a dense shade cover with its handsome leaves that no weeds will grow under it – so I forgive it.
Eight Flowers Great Flowers
“I have a brown thumb” is a claim I hear on a regular basis, but one which I always dispute. There are no brown thumbs, only bad soil or plants living (and dying) where they should not be. Of course, any plant can die of thirst when first planted, and poor soils can keep them from thriving. But some plants are tougher than others, so this week I shall suggest eight plants that you can use in your garden with a very high probability that they will do well for you. Even very well. Even if you have a brown thumb. Just put them in good soil in the right amount of sun.
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are fool proof. I once left a clump of daylilies on the lawn in a relatively shady place. I had dug them up and fully intended to put them in the compost pile, but didn’t get around it right away. Before I knew it, they had rooted in – and were blooming!
Daylilies prefer full sun and good soil, but they’re not fussy. The old orange ones spread by root, as do the double orange ones. Most others just develop into bigger clumps every year. Daylilies produce flower stalks called scapes, and each scape will produce 3 to 9 buds; these buds bloom sequentially, each for just about a day – hence the name. Most daylilies come in shades of yellow, but dark reds and some pinky ones exist, too. A few re-bloom off and on all summer.
Evening primroses or sundrops (Oenothera missouriensis) are blooming for me right now, but they are not really primroses at all. The flowers are bright yellow cups on 18 to 30-inch stems that flower – and spread – cheerfully. They spread by root and by seed, and might be thought to be thugs, except they pull easily and are pleasant. They will bloom in full sun to part shade, and are not fussy about their soil.
Peonies (Paeonia spp.) These beauties are mostly done for the season, though a few late bloomers might still be blooming. They love full sun and rich soil, but will still bloom in part shade and even in dry, sandy soils. Their roots are big, fleshy tubers that go deep down into the soil, so I recommend digging a much bigger and deeper hole for a peony than for other plants. Enrich the soil with composted cow manure, rotted leaf mulch or other organic products, especially some organic fertilizer.
Bee Balm
Peonies grow from buds or “eyes” that develop each year beneath the soil surface. If you plant a peony too deeply and cover up the eyes with more than an inch of soil, the plant will not bloom after the first year. Other than that? Success is guaranteed. I have a peony that my grandmother Lenat planted – and she died around 1953. My mother grew it, now I have it. I shall leave it to one of my grandchildren. Peonies are forever.
Pink Mallow (Malva alcea). Some fancy gardeners turn their noses up at pink mallow, but I love it. It grows 3-5 feet tall and produces a bounty of pink blossoms that vaguely resemble single roses- but up to 3 inches in diameter. It has a deep tap root so it does not move easily, but seed-grown “volunteers” show up around my garden. Full sun to part shade. It is a short-lived perennial, but has plenty of “babies” so you will always have some.
Rudbekia ‘Prairie Sun’
Black-eyed Susans (Rudbekia spp.) There are dozens of species of this joyful summer flower. I grow a variety called ‘Prairie Sun’ in my hot, dry front walkway, and it blooms all summer – but, truth-be-told, often die in winter. No matter, I’ll buy it again and again. One of my favorites is a fall-season bloomer with delicate flowers, Rudbekia subtomentosa ‘Henry Eilers’.
Hostas (Hosta spp.). These are primarily shade plants grown for their lovely leaves. If there is too much sun on them, the leaves will scorch and turn yellow. A few kinds will bloom with tall flower spikes, but others have blossoms that are not of much interest. Hostas do best with rich soil, but will grow in almost any soil. I have hostas from under 2 inches tall to more than 30 inches tall, and a variety of greens, some with blue or yellow tinges.
Astillbe
Astillbes (Astillbe spp.). These are primarily sold as shade plants, but I grow them in both full sun and partial shade. The key is this: the more sun there is, the more moisture is needed. They bloom in great plumes of tiny florets in pink, white and dark red. They appreciate rich, organic soil, so improve the soil before planting.
Bee Balm (Monarda didyma). Bee Balm displays nice clumps of red or pinkish tubular flowers that are arranged in whorls atop 3-4 foot stems. In the mint family, they are fragrant and clumps spread by root – sometimes too vigorously. But extra plants are easily pulled. Grow them in morning sun in ordinary garden soil. All day sun in dry, sandy locations will not lead to happy plants.
You don’t have to be born a gardener. Just follow the directions on the plant tags – or my articles – and be sure to add compost to the soil before planting in a nice, big hole. You’ll soon have a green thumb.
Henry Homeyer can be reached at P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746 or henry.homeyer@comcast.net. His Web site is www.Gardening-guy.com.